Xavier Fable ×70 AW26 — Paris

VANTABLUME

Collection 001 — Exoskeleton

The Looks

Armour grown, not sewn.

Look 01 — sculpted leather corset flaring into a full black silk gown

Carapace Gown

Moulded bridle leather over bias-cut gazar — twelve plates, wet-formed on the body, riveted by hand. The corset closes with a single spine of blackened steel. 340 hours.

Look 02 — high-necked column dress scaled entirely in dark lacquered paillettes

Thorax Column

Nine thousand lacquered scales, each cut from horn-pressed acetate and sewn singly to a tulle ground. The dress weighs eleven kilograms and moves like water. 520 hours.

Look 03 — asymmetric fishtail gown with an articulated sculptural sleeve

Chrysalis

Articulated limb of vegetable-tanned hide on a jointed cane armature; crêpe de chine gown buttoned through with oxidised silver. Worn once, then archived. 410 hours.

Macro photograph of overlapping black leather scales and hand stitching
“We do not dress the body. We give it a second skeleton, and let it decide what to become.”
Mireille Vantablume — Founder, 1987

Manifesto

The House

Vantablume was founded on a refusal: that softness is the only language a garment may speak. In the atelier on Rue de Poitou, cloth is treated as a living material with a will of its own — boiled, pressed, moulded, persuaded into structures that hold the air around the body like held breath.

Collection 001, Exoskeleton, studies the insect wing and the beetle's shell — surfaces that are armour and ornament at once. Every plate is formed by hand over plaster casts of the house's fit models; every scale is sewn by a single petite main from first to last, so that each dress carries one person's patience inside it.

Nothing here is seasonal. Nothing is repeated. Each look exists as a single exemplar, numbered, archived, and released only to those who understand that couture is not bought — it is entrusted.

The house shows once a year, in silence, without music. What you hear on the runway is the garment itself: the dry click of leather plates, the hush of gazar. This is the sound of Vantablume.

Défilé 001

Show credits

Creative DirectionMireille Vantablume
Head of AtelierOttavio Ferrante
PhotographyInes Kessler-Blyth
CastingAurelio de Winter
Set & LightStudio Corvide, Paris
Sound of SilenceThe Garments Themselves